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Kingdom of Cambodia
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Angkor Wat, Cambodia Angkor Wat:
Angkor Wat, an ancient temple hidden in the jungles of northern Cambodia, is the largest temple complex in the world. Angkor Wat is the most famous of the ruined Khmer temples and was built in the twelfth century. The temple is as large as an ancient city, covering 500 acres.
Angkor Wat Complex Passages, Siem Reap, Cambodia Angkor Wat Interior:
I gained a real appreciation for Angkor Wat as I endlessly wandered around for hours. The complex is much like a small city, with many passageways leading to other temples. I could have spent days (I wish I did) navigating them all.
My Favorite Tour Guides, Angkor, Cambodia Tour Guides:
In all of my travels I have yet to meet people friendlier than the Cambodians. Wherever you go, impromptu tour guides show up, such as these two girls at one of the mountain temples. They showed us around the complex, playfully darting around the large, clumsy tourists.
Bridge Statues, Angkor, Cambodia Bridge Statues:
For centuries, beautiful statues have guarded the bridges of Angkor. Always on the lookout for a photo opportunity, we thought the statues could use a little company after being neglected for all these years.
Bridge Statues, Angkor, Cambodia Bridge Statues:
You may have noticed that some of the heads on these statues don't match their bodies. This is because of the lucrative trade of statue heads, particularly in Thailand. To fight back, the original heads of these statues have been removed by the Cambodian government and have been replaced with replicas.
Water Girls, Cambodia Water Girls:
These girls had a very effective way of selling us water. They would chase us up and down the temples (they could really climb those ruins!) until we were all worn out and then would offer to sell us water. For my friend Matt and I, their sales were effective!
Angkor Monks, Cambodia Saffron-Robed Monks:
Originally built as religious temples, the great monuments in Angkor fell into disrepair after the city was abandoned hundreds of years ago. Fortunately, after the Khmer Rouge left the area in the late 1970s, monks are once again taking care of these ancient relics.
Temple Carvings at Angkor, Cambodia Angkor Temple Carvings:
There are thousands of carvings in the walls of these ancient monuments, most of which tell stories of Cambodian folklore. It is amazing that such intricate carvings survived for so many years.
The Bayon, Angkor, Cambodia The Bayon:
Once the capital building in Angkor, the Bayon is truly eerie, as there are hundreds of smiling faces on every structure. The effect is as peaceful as it is unique.
Jungle Ruins, Angkor Thom, Cambodia Happy New Year! Angkor, Cambodia

Trees at Ta Prom:
(Left)  The ancient city of Angkor is situated deep in the jungles of northern Cambodia. Mother Nature has been waging her own battle against the monuments, as many are overgrown with trees and vines.

Happy New Year:
(Right)  I happened to be in Cambodia over their traditional new year's celebrations, where the kids joyously covered the tourists (and themselves) with baby powder.

Boats on the Tonle Sap, Cambodia Tonle Sap Boats:
Visiting Cambodia is like stepping back in time. We traveled on the Tonle Sap river for 8 hours to reach Angkor, and on the way we passed many water villages. These humble, yet impressive villages are completely self-contained, some even containing petrol stations for the local boats.
Phnom Penh Traffic, Cambodia Elephants:
I happened to be walking down the main street in Phnom Penh when I saw a man and his elephant walking by. Just another day in Cambodia's crazy capital...
Along the Tonle Sap, Phnom Penh, Cambodia Tonle Sap River:
Phnom Penh is situated at the confluence of the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers. The city itself is situated along the Tonle Sap, where spectacular views like this are common.
Angkor Wat at Sunrise, Cambodia Angkor Wat at Sunrise:
We arose before dawn to catch this mesmerizing view of Angkor Wat. There were few tourists there and the villagers had not yet begun to hawk their wares. It was a moment of tranquil peace that a photograph can never duplicate.


The Killing Fields, Phnom Penh


It is hard to think of Cambodia today without thinking of the Khmer Rouge and the killing fields. I never really knew what the killing fields were until I went to Asia (I've also learned that American public schools don't teach topics where America is at fault), but once I learned what happened I was fascinated and saddened at the same time. While in Cambodia I visited a former school that was turned into a killing center in the mid-1970s and is now a museum. I also visited one of the infamous killing fields and met many people who had lost family members during this massacre. On the way I talked to people whose families were destroyed and even met former Khmer Rouge commandos. It truly was a sobering experience.

S-21 Detention Center, Phnom Penh, Cambodia S21 Barbed Wire:
Until 1975, this building was a high school in Phnom Penh. After the Khmer Rouge took over the capital, however, this school was transformed into a mass torture and execution center where over 14,000 innocent civilians were brutally murdered.
Mass Grave - Killing Fields outside of Phnom Penh, Cambodia The Killing Fields:
Throughout the countryside there are mass graves where two million Cambodians (of a total population of 8 million) are buried. Most of the deceased were beaten to death with rakes and shovels, in order to save bullets. (The sign lists the number of bodies in this single grave, 450)
Killing Fields mass grave remains, Cambodia Remains:
While walking around the mass graves, I looked down and was shocked at what I saw. In this photo of a random spot of ground, you can see a bone fragment, a swatch of blue cloth, and a tooth. It is hard to believe that something so gruesome could have ever happened, especially so recently.
Remnants of the Killing Fields, Cambodia Senseless Murders:
Out of a population of eight million, two million innocent Cambodians were murdered for no sensible reason. The effects of this systematic slaughter remain today, as Cambodia is one of the most heavily mined countries on Earth and one in every 250 people is an amputee, the highest ratio on the planet.
Cambodia


Cambodia Travel Resources

Encarta map of Cambodia: See an excellent map of Cambodia

Cambodia Travel Information: Lonely Planet Destination Guide: Here is an online guidebook for Cambodia. I can't wait to go back... does anybody want to join me?

The Phnom Penh Post: Cambodia's best (and only?) online newspaper.

Off The Rails In Phnom Penh: Easily my favorite book on Cambodia (and I've read many), it tells the seedy story of expatriate life in Cambodia during the 1990's. Do read this one!

Cambodia in Modern History: Everybody should know what atrocities happened in this beautiful country.

Cambodian Genocide Program: Yale University has painstakingly documented the Khmer Rouge atrocities.

Steven Wallace's Portfolio: Professional photographs which capture the heart and soul of Cambodia.

Human Rights In Cambodia: Information and links pertaining to the human rights violations over the past 30 years.

Architecture Asia: There is an unbelievable array of architecture in Cambodia. Go here to see examples and descriptions.

Angkor.com: Take a virtual tour of Ta Phrom, an ancient Khmer temple

Phnom Penh.com: The website for the capital of Cambodia

CNN.com: Khmer Rouge Exhibit: Information on a traveling exhibit of Khmer Rouge photographs

Protecting Cambodia's Imperiled Art: Learn about the theft of Cambodia's national treasures

Andy Brouwer's Cambodia Tales: A tremendous compendium of information about Cambodia

Homesteading in Hell: Refugees are returning to a country that's littered with land mines. Read about the struggles they face.

Living in Cambodia: View a recently declassified document from the US embassy in Phnom Penh (1976).

Pol Pot: Architect of Genocide: Learn about Pol Pot, one of the cruelest murderers of all time.

Yatesweb: Cambodia: A family's compendium of Cambodian information. Be sure to check out the expansive links section!

The Elephant Walk: In Boston you'll find my favorite Cambodian restaurant. Try the delicious recipes in their cookbook!

Flags Of The World: Cambodia: Information about and history of Cambodia's flag


Travel Comments
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Click here to read an article I wrote about Cambodia (A Journey Through The Heart of Cambodia - it was published!) (A new window will open) or click here to download it in Word 2000 format.

Time Visited:
April 1999

Main Cities Visited: Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Angkor

Modes of Transportation: Pickup, Taxi, Back of Pickup, Boat, Roof of Boat, motorcycle

How I Ended Up There: I first read about Cambodia in "Southeast Asia on a Shoestring" while traveling around the Philippines. Despite the safety concerns, I desperately wanted to go there. Luckily, I traveled with a few friends and we spend two weeks in Cambodia and Vietnam.

Memorable Foods: "Happy Pizza", Angkor Beer (Slogan: "My country, my beer"), Flavorful Cambodian Cuisine, Lychees, Jelly Beans

What I Liked: Climbing and exploring the ancient ruins of Angkor, Sitting on the porch of the FCC as chameleons climbed the walls, watching life pass by on the Tonle Sap River.

What I Disliked: The immense hardships the people faced on a daily basis, the way the country was destroyed - first by the USA and then by their own people

Where I Stayed: hostels, guesthouses

Cambodia in Five Words: pride, destruction, inner strength, ignored, atrocity

My Thoughts: No country captured my heart like Cambodia. While most people have never heard of Cambodia, those who have mostly associate it with death and destruction. I found Cambodia to be the most "raw" of all of the countries I visited. You will find no McDonald's in Cambodia, nor will you find any Holiday Inns. What you will find is a country with a proud past, a struggling present, and an uncertain future.

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